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This place and the turning, twisting road up to it is worth the amazing drive to get there. The road from Funchal has been made a lot easier with the many tunnels that now exist on the road, but when you get into the village centre, don't go through to the end. The road finishes about a k and a half beyond the centre, in a small bus turn round with a high wall around it. You just can't go any further..
One day maybe, they'll make a tunnel through the mountains to get to the North Coast of Madeira, but now there is one road in and the same one out. Try the restaurant on your left just past the bank and ATM who offer a lovely dish of roasted chestnuts, plenty for two. But the real star is the scenery with peaks soaring up around you while you eat al fresco and it's worth the drive just to sit there and drink in the scenery. If you're driving, leave the alcohol drinking till you get back to Funchal.