I don't know how to rate this place. On the one hand, it's atop a hill, it's strikingly beautiful in an almost storybook way. Paths are lit up nightly with lanterns, small cottages and guest houses line paths through trees and bushes, a beautiful pool with a view unlike any other I've ever seen sits empty most of the day. The main house and reception houses the restaurant. The food is beautiful, traditional turkish breakfasts with spreads of cheeses, various iterations of dairy, and fresh fruit and vegetables, decent coffee, majestic. At night, you're surrounded by candles and books and table cloths and ballet slipper soft quiet service. The lamb was perhaps the best I've ever had, the imam's call to prayer from the town below is beautiful and pierces the night air, conversations stop.
You head back to your room in one of the cottages, reversal of fortune. The cottages take rustic chic to a new level. Beds are close to the floor like tatami mats. You feel like you're back at summer camp, no chairs to sit in (maybe one), no amenities, no view, it's cramped, there are bugs everywhere, the shower runs out of hot water-- it feels like you're on top of a hill in a small town in a developing country- and then you realize-- you're on top of a hill in a small town in a developing country. And then you start to notice things -- the "driver" the hotel arranges inappropriately flirts with your female traveling companion and pesters you, not once, not twice, but fifty times to come visit his carpet shop in the town below. The common area for sitting and relaxing is taken up by the hotel's cleaning ladies and their families, who are all sitting and relaxing. Workers work on the pool and leer at the two women swimming alone, taking two hours to do a ten minute repair.
And so you take the good with the bad. You imagine bringing your partner here, sweeping them off their feet, and hoping the big house they rent out is available so you don't have to sleep on the floor. You hope the carpet store closes, or that they hire a different driver. But then you realize you're in Turkey, the political dissident author/owner/self-fashioned hotelier's books are on the shelf, a chicken joins you in the shower as the door is broken and keeps swinging open, and you kind of love the whole thing. Just make sure you visit the carpet shop.
Who it's for: College history majors traveling before grad school, hippie hikers, people that write for design magazines.
Who it's not for: Your rich in-laws that love the Four Seasons, your bros, good looking women traveling alone.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- There are four types of accommodation on offer: Inn - double or twin rooms - all en suite, breakfast included. Houses - fully independent historic houses - sleep 4-5 - all en suite, breakfast basket provided. Cottages - modest comfort in beautiful farm setting - all en suite, breakfast included. Guesthouse - economy double and twin rooms, one suite - all en suite, breakfast included. ... more less
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