My wife, a friend and I went to Peidra Piedra for 4 nights and 4 days, and we thought the world of it.
First, it's very remote, and to get there you need to fly into Nuqui, which is not the most lovely town. From Nuqui, a Piedra Piedra employee will pick you up by boat and take you to the lodge, where fresh fish and freshly squeezed juices await you. The cook prepares all your meals, and I found the food delicious, and there was plenty of it. (be advised, however, you will eat a lot of fish. It's all fresh, and very good, but there is a lot of it). My friend is vegetarian, however, and the cook made decent vegetarian substitutes. Also, for every meal the cook prepares juices from fruit you've never seen or heard of, and the flavors are spectacular. My favorite was the boroghogh (sp?). You can order dark rum mojitos for a little extra, which are worth it.
You can take an excursion by boat to see whales in the Pacific. (we were there in August). They are stunning. We watched a mother whale teach her baby how to smack its tail into the water (which I was told they do to rid themselves of parasites). We were fairly close (less than 25 meters at times), and got great pictures.
We also took a long, guided hike through the jungle in search of frogs, and found some brilliant orange and yellow hoppers atop a ridge line. Coming back to the lodge, we walked along (and in) a shallow river with our guides and their fun dogs.
You can walk from Piedra Piedra to some of the other lodges (e.g. El Cantil), which rent kayaks and snorkel gear. (the snorkeling is not good, but fun to pass the time).
The pool carved out of the rocky outcropping at Piedra Piedra is a bit sandy as the water in it is replenished by a natural water source. I enjoyed the pool but my wife and our friend stayed out of it. If you don't like the sandy pool, however, you will still enjoy relaxing in the hammocks on the outcropping, which give you spectacular views of the pure Pacific waters. One sunny day, we were on the outcropping, gazing across the water, and saw in the distance a massive humpback whale leap entirely out of the water before crashing back in (a full breach they call it): it lasted no more than 2 seconds but the scene is permanently imprinted in my memory.
Drawback: it's hard to get there and hard to leave. Flights in Colombia are frequently delayed or cancelled. On our way out, our flight was delayed 5 hours, and we missed our connection in Quibdo, and spent the night there (the airline paid for it, but Quibdo is not a tourist destination). So if you go to this area of Colombia, give yourself two days to get back to whichever major city you plan to depart the country from.
Also, before going there, I was a bit apprehensive about safety, given that I believe this area used to be controlled by the FARC. We had no issues, however, and there is a noticeable Colombian military presence in Nuqui, which shows there used to be problems, but is nevertheless reassuring.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- WELCOME TO THE COLOMBIAN PACIFIC UNIVERSE! Piedra Piedra is a total experience, a life lesson of balance between unspoliled nature and responsible eco-tourism. ... more less
- Also Known As:
- Piedra Piedra Colombia/Nuqui