My wife and I were being shown the sights of Primošten by our hostess guides Biljana Lambasa and Tina Vickov, which brought us to Šarićevi Dvori, the agri-tourism highlight of our day. We visited in the off season, so our host, Zoran Sarić paid us extra attention. We learned of his life as a player on a world champion water polo team, and his taking over the family farm and home of his ancestors, the 350 year old site that is now open to tourists.
From the moment we arrived and received the tour and explanation of the site we were made to feel welcome and comfortable. In classic Croatian tradition, the bottle of rakija and glasses appeared and we all drank to health and happiness. Zoran had been notified ahead of time that there was one vegetarian among us, and his wife had prepared a delicious lentil and bean soup.
We enjoyed artisan bread cooked the traditional way in a peka, a metal pot that is buried in embers of a wood fire. There is much to be said for the traditional ways. The bread, which had wonderful texture and flavor quickly disappeared, and of course, another basket of bread appeared. The traditional appetizers of olives, farm cheese and prosciutto were wonderful. Fortunately, I have learned not to fill up on the first course in Croatia because there is always more coming. We had the octopus and vegetables (also cooked in a peka). The octopus was so tender that I did not need a knife to cut it into bite sized pieces.
We had the luxury of time and so we stayed to watch the sun go down, which comes fairly early in mid-November. Our visit was more than a great meal. It was a great experience. Even if you do not go to Šarićevi Dvori to eat, you owe it to yourself to visit. If you can stay to eat you will not be disappointed.