The charms of Loggos are many and obvious, deriving mainly from the harbour and the buildings fronting it. Many of these buildings house restaurants, and nobody can be blamed for making sitting in front of any one of them and enjoying excellent food with a world class view. However, if you were to walk round the corner and up the lane, you will find Tolis' grill. Your reward will be a meal unlike any other you will have in Loggos.
There are no linen tables cloths to be found here, no fine china or heavy cutlery. You will not find a well weighted and eye pleasing wine glass, nor an award winning Marsanne to go in it. What you will find is ever industrious Tolis, his wife and mother, his chef and their grill.
That grill gives up food that haunts my dreams in the winter. Well seasoned, simply cooked lamb, Paxiot chicken, rabbit, whatever is available. Souvlaki, gyros, prawns saganaki; if it can be cooked over charcoal and flame on a spit, it will come to your table on a heaving platter with delicious potatoes and excellent tsatsiki. These things are subjective of course, but the tsatsiki Tolis' mother makes is by far the best I have ever tasted, and hands down the best to be had in Loggos. She's not shy with the garlic, and for that she has my eternal respect and gratitude. Try the tsatsiki!
The food is simple, yes, but I cannot conceive of a joy greater than
fresh, local produce cooked simply and well by somebody who knows what they are doing. Add to this a charming host and very reasonable prices, and the whole is very hard to beat. This is clearly attested to by the number of local families I have seen eating there in the couple of years I've known it. Children play on the lane outside, in the chaotic, vocal and kinetic way that children do. They are pacified nightly by Tolis, who hands them a gyro, and there is peace for its duration.
We were lucky enough to be around a few weeks ago when many a local musician convened to play and sing. Far from being a Greek night put on for the tourists (by 11 o'clock, we were the only non Greeks left - when we left around 3 a.m. it was still going strong), this was joyous, raucous and very real. Young and old men and women packed the place with songs of love and loss, which Spiros played the accordion and Elias played his bouzouki. It is testament to Tolis, his family and their food that this was the venue for such an arresting gathering.