Passerini in the town of Chiavenna has several entries in the Michelin guides, so many travellers wiill feel that's enough of a recommendation. But our party of four turned up without a reservation on an unusually rainy summer night in this alpine region of Italy, and tables were at a premium. Room was unhesitatingly found for us next to the bar, a fresh cloth laid and a feast duly delivered. All very simple: the best ingredients woven into magic with a deft hand. Service lovely, the owner proud but delighted by our enthusaistic response to the specials (mushroom dishes) and the astonishing tagliata di manzo. Best for last: a passionfruit semi-freddo that defies description. Wonderful !
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