We stumbled upon the Chasa De Capol on a v-e-r-y hot late afternoon. We were looking for some charming outdoor spot which was NOT on the street. Sta. Maria is charming, but, like most towns in this valley, everything sits on the one and only main street and shares in the traffic. We looked down a little 'snickelway' between the Chasa De Capol and the next establishment and discovered a cool garden with lots of green and shade.
We took our evening aperitif in the garden - wonderful wine, all from the owner's own vineyards just over the border in Italy. We moved inside for the continuation of a true gourmet experience. Food, wine and service were excellent. The hotel itself is a small museum, which carries a history dating back to about 1100. Special rooms included the Davidoff room (THE Mr. Davidoff was a guest here) where we took our after-dinner coffee, grappa, and a cigarillo for my husband, a spacious bar area, a cellar with a collection of carriages, and a kitchen that could be the setting for a 19th century series of Julia Child's Cooking Classes.
We came back again a day or so later and enjoyed a summer lunch in the garden. Papa and son (the chef) came out to greet us, with the son pulling out his best English for me, although we both speak German.
We were staying in a nearby hotel, which is how we stumbled upon this gem.So we did NOT stay at the hotel, although we did get to see some of the rooms (I am always curious and our hosts were so accommodating). The rooms were unique and full of antiques - but were a bit small. A compensation: the hotel has an outdoor pool - fantastic during a hot summer.
A small tip: The Engadin Valley is the Canton of Graubünden's main tourist section but a summer side trip down the Müstair valley is both easy and highly recommendable. For example, the Postauto from Zernez will wind you over a spectacular mountain pass and, in 30 minutes, deposit you Sta. Maria for a truly wonderful lunch. If you like hiking and sightseeing, you can get off the bus in Tschiev and amble along the river ROM down to Sta. Maria, have lunch, then either walk or take the bus to Müstair to see the monastery (beams date back to time of Charlemagne). The Postauto will take you back to Zernez.
- Also Known As:
- Chasa De Capol Switzerland/Santa Maria Val Mustair