If you like big trees such as redwoods, you will be impressed by the remaining giant cryptomeria trees here. Take a bus rather than walk up the mountain, and then stroll around these monster trunks. Plenty of opportunities for getting away from the crowds.
Take a bus from Lin'an old bus station (chang tu ke yun zhong xin, near the Qianwang Hotel) to the small town of Yuqian, which is about 1 hour and 7RMB away. From there change buses (one runs every 40 minutes) to get to the West Tianmushan ticket office and resort. Admission 150RMB.
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