I had a private surf lesson with Bennie and she completely made me forget about my negative previous surfing experiences. She was so patient with me and then as soon as things started clicking, she was giving great feedback in a helpful way. I made some notes to keep much of what she taught me fresh in my mind for the next surf day. When I return next year, I'm going straight to this surf school!
Surf notes1. How to get the board up and over the wave. Place hands down centre of board near the tail, exclaim HI YAH and pop the nose over the wave as the back hand pushes down HARD on the board. 2. I should get a standard board 9 feet in length. 3. Watch the wave build and start to break. Then turn around by pushing on the tail. Get on the board and watch the wave until it is quite close. Swim like hell and feel the pull of the wave. Stand up as soon as possible after that. 4. Waves look bigger as they build but when they get to where I am which is shore side of the break, they are okay. 5. It's okay to ride the wave in on your chest. But, keep the chest high. 6. When you pop up, think about turning your toes inward. You won't but they end up where they should be. 7. I tend to keep myself a bit square on the board but I need to remember to be perpendicular to the board. 8. No matter what, stand up on the ride in. Even if it's close to shore because it gets more automatic after that. 9. When you bail unexpectedly, pull one arm over your head to the crown, and the other wraps around to reach the other ear. The elbows should cross over the nose. This position will protect the face from the board hitting it. Stay like that till you surface. 10. I CAN surf!!!
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