During the trip planning phase we were stuck between basing in Ragusa Ibla or Modica. Several contributors to the Sicily forum had stressed that Modica was a place where one could stay and experience true, day-to-day life while being surrounded by the spectacular Baroque architecture of the southeast. We decided on Modica, finally, and also elected to rely on hotels and taxis for transportation, as we didn't want to deal with the hassles of driving and parking. We arranged for a transfer from the Catania Airport to the hotel, and were thrilled that it was Mr. Failla himself who picked us up immediately on arrival!
Mr. Failla is a gracious gentleman and very helpful host. He provided us with the orientation we needed in order to feel grounded and secure in our new home for several days. He is one of those people one meets while traveling who leaves a lasting, favorable impression. We will be forever grateful to him for providing us with a lovely introduction to charms of Sicily.
The hotel is truly of the old school, almost reminiscent of the old Sherry-Netherland in New York or the Connaught in London from decades past. Although not quite as grand or luxurious in scale it is elegant and comfortable in a way that resonates with the traveling cognoscenti.
We had a large suite with a very tall, elaborately-painted ceiling and beautifully tiled floor. The bed was firm - very firm - so be prepared for that; fortunately, that is how we like it. The bath was small but adequate. Our only complaint was a bad odor that wafted from the bath every now and then, which was remedied by closing the door. Air conditioning worked well, and lighting was well-placed. We had two tiny balconies which overlooked city life from the second story. I particularly enjoyed watching the school children play while waiting for the school bus. There is a lot of activity here - it seems as if one is in a major hub of Modica Alta, but that made it all the more interesting. There was a fair amount of street noise, which dissipated as evening turned into night. All in all, it was a comfortable space. Not luxurious in the way of a Ritz-Carlton or Aman hotel, but very nice nonetheless, conveying a true sense of place.
Breakfast was elaborate and very satisfying. In addition to what one would expect at a hotel of this caliber, there were at least three cakes presented on the buffet table every morning representing the very best the local pasticceria could produce. One cake - a cream-filled gateau with strawberries and pistachios, covered with creme Chantilly - will remain in my memory forever.
Of course, the staff is really what makes all the difference. Manuela, Paola, and Laura at the front desk did everything they could to make our experience satisfying and enjoyable. And Valerio, who served in a number of capacities, embodied competence and friendliness while exuding a particularly appealing swagger.
Modica can be difficult to manage if one has problems with walking. The hotel is in the upper town, and some of the sights and stores are in the lower town. A series of stairs goes all the way from bottom to top, but we actually enjoyed climbing these. One day, while visiting the lower town (Modica Bassa) I heard the sound of trumpets playing the "Triumphal March" from "Aida." When I investigated its source, I found three high school boys practicing the piece while pointing their trumpets out the street-level window of their school. They were actually very good, and played in tune. It was a moment I will always cherish; I could not have imagined a more serendipitous event for the beginning of our trip.
The hotel arranged a number of excursions for us. Mr. Failla drove us to some of the places; on the day we visited Ragusa Ibla, he substituted a local taxi driver who did a great job. We had no worries, whatsoever. It was easy to be a guest of the hotel. That's the way it should be, right? They get it. They know what to do and how to execute it in a way that makes you feel like a cherished guest. (Of note is that we were two men traveling together, and we were always made to feel welcome and comfortable. I am particularly grateful for that.)
This hotel is in my top-ten of all time.