I highly reccomend opting for the open air tram tours as you have no barrier between you and the sights. The Valley Floor tram tour was great! We stopped in the valley and at Tunnel View. We learned a lot about the park from the ranger who led the tour and got a lot of great pictures. The park is so large that walking everywhere would be too much for most people and famlies. I highly reccomend mixing in tours with hikes so your trip is more ejnoyable. Also, if you are touring in the summer, be sure to do the tram tour early in the morning. It gets really hot by mid day and you will start to melt otherwise.
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