Cholula, on the outskirts of Puebla, is one of the most interesting small cities in Mexico. It was a major religious center at the time of the Conquest. You can read a description of the place in a book (still in print) by Bernal Diaz del Castillo, one of the conquistadores who came with Cortés. The Spanish had most of the native shrines destroyed and built churches at all the temple sites-- they say that there are 365 churches in Cholula. But the Virgen de los Remedios church is the only one I know that sits on top of one of the great pyramids of Mexico. You can go inside the pyramid itself! The archaeological site is expansive, with good signage. I highly recommend using a guide-- he'll point out elements that you shouldn't miss. You can walk up to the church, too-- and maybe buy some roasted grasshoppers on the way.
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