Though neither an American nor an Indian this is one of the most evocative places I have ever visited. It really brings the events of that sad day to life. The exhibits and the ranger talk are superb and so is the tour around the battlefield, which we did twice, once on the bus and once in the car. It's interesting that Last Stand Hill, where Custer's body was found, was probably not the site of the "last stand" at all - archeological evidence from the 1980's suggests the last troopers to die were some way down the coulee towards the river. You can see the markers from the visitor centre.
Our Crow guide on the bus was terrific. Custer had Crow guides too as they were too not friendly with the Lakota and Cheyenne camped in the valley. The whole site is on the Crow reservation, as it was in 1876.
It's only when you drive and walk the ground that you can begin to understand what happened there and - to some extent - why Custer did what he did.
I'll be back there again one day. Next time perhaps to learn more about our Crow hosts.
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