My wife and I arranged a 4WD tour from Reykjavik to the south coast by Eyjafjallajokull. There was one other tourist, an American lady from Boston. Our driver was Helgi. It was a bleak day with wind and rain but that actually added to the experience. The black sand beach was truly spectacular and Helgi certainly knew how to drive - we explored places that coach travellers could never have got to and we had a lunch at a lovely little farmohouse that again, coach travellers could not have used. A great trip. It's one of thse trips that would always be special but whch would be totally different depending on the weather. Try it.