This is a bistro and the food is simple but expertly done. Don't expect the last word in fashion (though a trendy verrine or two makes its way ontio the dessert menu). Instead concentrate on good ingredients cooked by someone who understands them and with an taste for winning combinations. The warm oysters share their shells with a puree of leeks; duck has a rich figgy wine-based sauce that works so well with the meat; and (my favourite) a simple fish and mash pie with a citrus tang that shows white fish can outsmart a crustacean any day. Service is unpretentious, informal and friendly. The little dog who is the bistro mascot may reach our shoelaces before someone takes your order, but who cares. A laugh and a cheery word from your waiter or waitress, a friendly wave when you leave and you don't ever feel like just another tourist.
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