It seems to me that most restaurant writers miss the mark by reserving their highest praise for those truly grand restaurants that manage a complicated menu and enormous beverage list in a grand setting. I think we should remember that the heart of the visit to the restaurant lies in the taste of the food-did you get delicious or didn't you?
By that standard, Gemelli is a great restaurant. The folks in the kitchen know how to cook. On our last visit, we had a seafood ravioli cooked al dente with a luscious mixed grill of vegetable and the steak frites cooked to perfection with perfect beef flavor. The pastas have always been outstanding and the fry cook does a great job. The daily soups -especially in winter-are a joy. We delighted in the cream of parsnip.
Neither of us is so sophisticated that we don't go all gooey over a creme brulee and we're glad that Gemelli is relaxed enough to make one-it's savory and eggy.
The wine and beer list is short but loaded with delicious and sophisticated choices that make the food even tastier. They are even daring enough to offer some big bottles of beers that aren't available in the small (12oz) format. We passed up a Victory Red Thunder for Dogfish Head's Hellhound. There was also a Scaldis on tap and some serious eel river porter.
In our several visits, the service has always been friendly and knowledgeable.