I am afraid that charm is not inevitably passed on genetically.
The Veau D'or under its founder Robert Treboux was a unique NY restaurant. I would visit occasionally over the last 40 plus years. The last few times Mr. Treboux was there at lunch, dining alone, fussed over by the staff and we had long conversations about the early days of French restaurants in NY including Le Pavillon where he had worked as a waiter.
I have spent wonderful times in France. I have dined in restaurants all over the world. For one five year period I was Chairman of Aston Martin in the UK.
I went back to the Veau D'or for lunch today with two friends. One of my friends had called in the morning to make sure that they served rognons at lunch which along with the celeriac was to be lunch for all of us.They confirmed that rognons would be available.
While searching for more information I was saddened to find Mr. Treboux's obituary in the NY Times. He died last summer at the fine age of 87. He was a charming gentlemen.
I had trouble imagining the restaurant without him but proceeded with optimism
What followed was one of the most startling, unpleasant and inexplicable experiences that I have had in a restaurant anywhere. We arrived at the door at 1:08pm. We were confronted in the doorway by a grim unsmiling woman who demanded why we were there. We claimed a reservation for 1pm. She said the reservation was for 12:45. It wasn't. She then stated that we were more than ten minutes late and they could not hold tables. The third member of our party arrived at 1:13, we had been left to sit at an unset table in the front There were at least 14 places at 4 tables that were all set up. We were told that kitchen closed at 1:15.
We were escorted out the door by the hostess, the only person we were able to talk to. I asked her name. She replied Kathleen, I asked for her last name she said "you can read about it."
I read about it and realized that she was Kathleen the daughter of Robert Treboux. What we had done to deserve the treatment we received I have no idea. I can not remember a similar experience. We walked three blocks to Felidia, were greated with warmth, and had the usual spectacular meal, alas no kidneys.
I will not look for them again at the Veau D'or.