Leon wasted no time, he talked 5 hours about history, culture, religion. We took our own rented 4WD SUV and never have been driven an SUV, I felt uneasy driving through mud and river. Leon was really patient augmenting his stories with driving tips ("Turn on the 4wd with THAT knob...") At one point he instructed us to line up and close our eyes. He started singing that was really majestic in the silent canyon between the echoing walls. That was really the high point.
Leon is not shy about tauting his own excellence, and he pushed us hard to buy his CD and DVD. Not that we will ever listen to it, we bought it as the total price of the trip with all the merchandise is still very reasonable.
By all means avoid the Bake-And-Shake tours when they pack a horde of tourists on a huge truck for a fortune.
Go with Leon, he is the best, I guarantee. (He will tell you that himself for about 25 times.)
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