Was really impressed with the "spires" and "buttes" and would recommend this as a must see to anybody visiting.
The view from the roadside on US163 is brilliant and there are plenty of stopping places so you can take photos.
Didn't bother paying the Indians US$5 per person for the privilege our ruining my rental car on the crap road inside the reservation so can't comment on whether it was worth it or not but we saw more than enough from the roadside so left happy travellers.
The nearest town of Kayenta is okay to pick up gas or food but would not recommend it for much else as most seem to live in dusty trailer homes and the Basha's Supermarket complex is a bit seedy with Indians begging outside and a general feeling that vehicle security could be a issue at times.
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