Anyone who spends a lot of time in the air knows the airport branches of famous local restaurants are never quite as good as "the real thing." But there is usually an exception that proves the rule. If you're going through Houston-Hobby, as I have done more than a few times since 2009, this particular branch of the Pappas restaurant family tree is it.
Folks who have been to Houston know the Pappas family is into everything from Greek and Italian food to barbecue, but they do seafood REALLY well. Compressing one of their excellent seafood houses into an airport-sized miniature space without compromising on the decor, the service, or the good? Bloody near impossible. But somehow every time I've been in there, they've managed.
Now I am usually alone, so I pounce on a barstool, and usually order off the appetizer menu. This place has appetizers you can generally make a light lunch out of anyway. I love the alligator, but you really can't go wrong with the cheesy, just-greasy-enough, seafood-loaded concoction known as the "shrimp and crawfish fondeaux" over French bread.
In, good food, out. Why would you go for stereotypical food court chow when you can have this?
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