It is hard to see how you can take an old building, and average wine, ordinary tables, and inexpensive ingredients and craft such a delightful dining experience. But Devolli's does it very well. This is really an Albanian/Italian restaurant (not pizza necessarily) and an outlet for a Texas winery. The front of the place is floor to ceiling wine bottles (try the Ivanhoe labels) while the back has tables and kitchen.
We had veal with artichokes and it was delicious. The veal was not really veal, more like a chopped, formed and breaded beef patty, but the preparation and presentation was such that it worked. The spaghetti sauce is awash with real cream, probably fattening but delicious.
Service proved wonderful and the local customers just broadcast friendship.
This is an experience worth your time.
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