I have to admit, this is my local. On the other hand, if I gave an unfairly biased review, you wouldn’t trust any of my other reviews, would you?
Sally and Tony, barmaid Michelle and staff, sometimes assisted by son Ian are fantastic hosts. St Dennis is not a tourist village and the pub is mostly patronized by locals – and as there are very few incomers, the locals all know each other. The thing is – when there’s a stranger in town, the locals treat them like family. You may pass through St Dennis en-route from St Austell, perhaps to visit The Screech Owl Sanctuary or Newquay. You may pull over outside the Boscawen (no parking restrictions for us!) because it looks so nice. When you walk in, you will experience the unusual sensation of suddenly belonging. Whoever is in, you’ll get greetings and conversation. Whatever time of day, nothing is too much trouble. Fancy a sandwich? Sally will disappear downstairs, to emerge fifteen minutes later with a platter, the like of which, you will not have seen before. All fresh. Nothing is pre-made. Fancy a bit of cake? Sally is always baking. And that Sunday Roast?
Well, that’s what we’re reviewing, so . . . let’s tuck in . . .
Beef, pork (she got chicken in specially the other day, just for one guest), all local meat. Cooked the traditional English (sorry- Cornish) way, ‘well done’ is soft, textured and intensely flavoured. Nothing added, no wacky herbs or spices, no balsamic-couscous-pomegranate-quail-salsa rubbed under the skin . . . just local meat, cooked as it should be, melts in the mouth. Local farmers eat here.
Gravy. Meat juices, salt n pepper, floaty bits of dissolving veg and a bit of browning. It will make you dribble so watch your shirt or blouse.
Perfectly cooked cabbage and carrot, bright colours and lively, vitamin packed taste.
Beautiful cauliflower cheese and proper mushy peas. I should say, southern style mushy peas, south of Nottingham. Northern mushies are different – paler – squidgier, with more pepper.
Roasties. NOT rolled in spelt flour seasoned with oak-aged goat dandruff and starfish oil. Proper spuds. Simply roasted in hot fat, they are golden and crispy with perfect dark caramelled edges. When you pull one open, it splits on the grain (fake roasties crumble) to reveal fluffy, waxy, sweet, nutty tater.
Yes the yorkie is Auntie’s but why not? Even Elaine uses them. Sitting atop the piled plate like a golden crown.
Sit back and take your time because there’s no hurry. There’s never a hurry in St Dennis. The staff and locals in ‘The Bos’ will be chatting to you about kids, gardens, TV, whatever. Every individual meal is prepared to order so it is piping hot. Enjoy a pint of whatever ale Tony has on that day. You won’t want to be hurrying. You’ll probably be late for Owl Sanctuary.
Dessert? Looks good. Everything home made, home baked . . . do you want that with clotted cream or custard?
Undo your belt a notch and have both. We’ll go the Owl Sanctuary tomorrow.