Great ambience in Harrisburg's restaurant row. Kitchen shows some real ambition but needs to -- pun intended -- take stock of what actually lands on tables. The vanilla-roasted salmon comes perched atop citrus risotto floating in a pool of raspberry and hazelnut buerre blanc. Sounds good but comes across as cloyingly sweet. The buerre blanc, better than the risotto, looks like a puddle of Pepto Bismol. Unfortunate. Doubly so because the vanilla-roasted salmon was excellent when pieces could be separated from their accompaniments. No doubt this looked dazzling when concocted and scored edgy presentation points when fighting for a place on the menu but it came across as a bit silly. The shrimp and grilled pineapple salad held together on the palate but could have been presented better; the shrimp looked like an afterthought. Overall, great ambience, perfect location and a kitchen obviously reaching for something new and different. They're not there yet, but I wish them well.
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