I'd wanted to hear more about aboriginal culture and was disappointed the indigenous section of Melbourne museum was closed for refurbishment. But with Rodney our Kuku Yalanji guide, we got the living, breathing experience. Ok, we were only three on our walk, but Rodney was exactly the right person to make sure everyone saw the important sights and heard his fascinating detail. From the smoking bark ceremony to welcome us to the rainforest, to the closing moments with local scones (damper) and tea brewed on the old cast iron stove, we were enchanted. We saw which trees were used by his ancestors to carve boomerangs, which serrated edged leaf could mimic acupuncture if you had a headache, which leaves would give you pain for days if you touched them and how the women cracked nuts in stones with dimples on their surface. We spotted a turtle cave painting and were told the creation story by one of Rodney's colleagues in costume.
Back in the Mossman Centre, fairly newly opened, we bought good quality souvenirs from local indigenous people who, I understand, benefit from the jobs and income it brings to the area. On a second visit, we had tea and cake, and bought competitively-priced artwork.
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