We traveled 2 hours on an ADO bus (74p each) from Tulum to Valladolid where we stayed 2 nights at Hotel Zaci, just around the corner from the bus station: 300p for a clean room with 2 double beds, tv (nice to have during the World Cup!), wood furniture, stencil decorations, and hot water (had to be really patient for the hot water but it arrived eventually). The towels and beddings were a little worn but they were clean so we weren't offended. The staff was helpful (Spanish only); we used the wifi in the entry area and enjoyed the nice pool. It’s just a few blocks from the lovely, shaded zocalo and the 1700’s cathedral and 4 or 5 blocks from a large grocery and the public market (opposite directions). The streets and sidewalks in Valladolid are new and the buildings freshly painted and colorful - a pretty town. We liked how lived in and tranquil it felt.
We ate 1 breakfast and 2 lunches in our room and dinner out both nights. The 1st night we loved Cafe Itali@ on the Candelaria park - great pasta (55p each) and ambiance. We would have eaten there again the 2nd night but it was closed (Monday) so we wound up at Las Campañas on the zocalo, decent food (~70p each, nearly every item on the menu had cheese as a main ingredient), nice live guitar music, and good people watching....We traveled 2 hours on an ADO bus (74p each) from Tulum to Valladolid where we stayed 2 nights at Hotel Zaci, just around the corner from the bus station: 300p for a clean room with 2 double beds, tv (nice to have during the World Cup!), wood furniture, stencil decorations, and hot water (had to be really patient for the hot water but it arrived eventually). The towels and beddings were a little worn but they were clean so we weren't offended. The staff was helpful (Spanish only); we used the wifi in the entry area and enjoyed the nice pool. It’s just a few blocks from the lovely, shaded zocalo and the 1700’s cathedral and 4 or 5 blocks from a large grocery and the public market (opposite directions). The streets and sidewalks in Valladolid are new and the buildings freshly painted and colorful - a pretty town. We liked how lived in and tranquil it felt.
We ate 1 breakfast and 2 lunches in our room and dinner out both nights. The 1st night we loved Cafe Itali@ on the Candelaria park - great pasta (55p each) and ambiance. We would have eaten there again the 2nd night but it was closed (Monday) so we wound up at Las Campañas on the zocalo, decent food (~70p each, nearly every item on the menu had cheese as a main ingredient), nice live guitar music, and good people watching.
The day in between we headed 1st thing to Chichén Itzá (51p each) via a colectivo (25p each) which left from near the bus station just around the corner. We loved beating the heat and beating the crowds plus the venders inside the park were just setting up and were friendly rather than pushy (we'd heard rumors). Frankly, we weren’t terribly impressed with the ruins and part of that, as with Tulum, was our inability to connect with the ruins physically like we’ve enjoyed in other countries.
Back in Valladolid we caught a colectivo (25p) in front of Hotel Maria Guadalupe a block south of Hotel Zaci to Dzitnup where we swam in 2 cenotes, Dzitnup (sometimes referred to as Xkeken) which was packed - lots of swimmers and photo snappers enjoying the cool lighting and interesting cave formations. The 2nd one, Samula or Sakmu’ulja, was quieter and we loved the big old tree growing by the small ceiling opening with roots reaching down toward the water. Both were incredibly cool and refreshing, a nice escape from the heat (27p each for each cenote).
Our final morning we headed to Meson de Marques for coffee and juice (39p for both) - beautiful setting in the courtyard of an historic hotel on the zocalo. We’d arranged transportation north through Rodolfo of Rudy Tours (on 40th between 37th and 39th, 985.102.5262) - personable and knowledgeable; he and a driver picked us up right on time at our hotel ($100US). First stop was the ruins of Ek Balam (31p each) which we loved - the massive Acropolis is a huge temple 135’ high (more than 1/3rd again as high as El Castillo at Chichén Itzá) and offers not only incredible views but gorgeous angel sculptures and excellent birding - motmots, my favorites! There was a nice small ball court and lots of buildings to climb and explore.
We enjoyed our stay at Hotel Zaci and Valladolid which together made the perfect base for exploring the area. Happy trails!More
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