We booked our trip through Viator tours - it was early morning tour with an archaeologist. While I doubt our guide's official credential, he was very knowledgeable and fun. Our pickup was very early (6:45 despite the sit saying 7:30), but we were among the first people at the site. It made for great photos, no waits, and seemingly free reign of the place. That said, several folks told us to avoid the place on weekends.
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