. . . for this caricature of French food. I lived in Paris for three years and ate a wide range of restaurants, at all price levels. Rue Cler's menu is based on the heavy-sauce tradition that went out of style decades ago in France, and it is not done well into the bargain. The bizarre fetish for beignets -- found only in fairground concession stands in France, never in restaurants -- is typical of Rue Cler's affection for grease. The kitchen has a heavy hand with salt as well, and does not handle their vaunted seasonal/regional vegetables with any skill. Decor blah, service blah, the place is over-praised and only survives for lack of competition.
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