Many years ago when Mirko's first opened, we thought their food was very good, if not a bit pricy. One thing we noticed, and others agreed, was that the greeter had an attitude that they were doing you a favor by feeding you. Hmmm...nobody's starving and there are other choices, so we didn't go back for many, many years.
I'm happy to report that our recent return showed a marked improvement in the greeting we received. Kind, warm and with a smile, is how I would describe it.
As for the food, we must also give credit to their capable chef. Everything was delivered as ordered and we were amply fed. My rack of lamb was superbly and expertly prepared, and the desserts were simple and yummy; generously proportioned, too. Most enjoyable.
So why do I give Mirko's a 3-star rating?
To begin with, the surroundings need much in the way of improvement. The room is, shall we say, plain. With that, there comes some compliment, as no one is trying to flog Aunt Sadie's art work!
However, the air was stuffy; one simply couldn't get one's breath from the high level of heat. Attempts to have it lowered were unsuccessful for the most part and we left in a sweat.
Most noteworthy were the high prices. The wines are sold at 3 times their retail price, which I feel is gouging the customer, as they offer only the standard varieties, to my recollection. The dinner pricing is equally excessive when compared to competing restaurants, of which there are a number from which to choose.
I see no claim in what some of my friends say, that Mirko's is one of the best restaurants on the East End. In saying that, I believe that they fail to consider all matters in their analysis and that includes relative value. It is here that Mirko's falls down in my opinion.
From my viewpoint, as someone who dines out more than he should, Mirko's chef serves food "properly". Properly trimmed, seasoned, cooked and presented. This is what I expect of all restaurants and a premium should not be associated with getting it.
Finally, I see no premium associated with their back-alley location, behind the U. S. Post Office in Water Mill. Except that the brick-paved garden at Mirkos provides diners with relative peace and quiet in the summer, it does nothing to relieve them of the dreary surrounds of the restaurant in the gloomy winter.
Short of these few issues, which obviously do not matter to their loyal patrons, Mirko's is to be recommended to a man who enjoys to be parted from his money...and there are many of those in the Hamptons.
For these reasons, I give Mirko's a generous 3-stars. I'll be back in another 20 years, God willing...and if I can afford it!
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