If you approach and drive through Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, it might seem like a “normal” small French town that has the benefit of nice views of the river Dordogne. But just off the main road, forming the heart of the town, is a lived-in medieval village that is modernised and maintained, yet a village that retains its charm and character because it is barely commercialised. The obligatory Romanesque church is more than usually interesting, partly because it seems to be decaying and crumbling before your eyes, but mainly for its surviving 11th century carvings and features (much of the fabric, and all the interior, are in a bad way; when we visited parts of the exterior were being restored). The centre is compact; you could spend hours there, but an hour will allow you to see most of it. There are a couple of eating places in the medieval part, including a good crêperie, but you will find more choice in the modern part of town. And there are other parts of the town where you can admire the Dordogne and walk along its banks for some way.