A friend says he's never had a bad meal at Del Rio, and after numerous visits, I would have to agree. They may be the only establishment in town of this caliber, but they try not to act like it. It's hard for me to go there and not order the Gospel Fried Chicken Salad (or the chicken dinner, when it's offered on Sundays,) but there are many other worthy choices on the menu. The Yucatan Enchilada is another favorite, stuffed with crab, shrimp, and artichoke hearts. Prime rib on Fridays and Saturdays is popular with red-meat eaters. And although I've never tried it, another friend avows that the 1/2 pound smoked cheddar cheese burger is one of the best burgers he's ever tasted.
They also do Sunday brunch, and the Eggs Benedict is as fine a rendition of that classic as I'VE ever sampled, accompanied by delicate hash browns, and, on my last visit, green beans nicely seasoned and carefully cooked to a perfect crunch. Watch out for the Bloody Marys, served in a pint glass, and extra spicy.
By Virginia City standards, this qualifies as a dress-up place: business casual, although it really doesn't matter. (The occasional guitar player in the corner wears jeans and a blazer.)
The Del Rio is very affordable for a meal so satisfying. Service is down-to-earth and "neighborly." Call ahead in winter; they close for a few weeks, when the sidewalk gets too icy.