I'm horribly picky. If somebody said to me that I have the palate of a toddler I wouldn't be offended, I'd be nodding in agreement. As a result I tend to play it pretty safe when I go out to eat. Simple food, strong flavours, few ingredients. I don't like most vegetables, I despise onions, basically I'm a royal pain in the behind. For our last meal on our recent Vegas trip we decided to try Bazaar Meat. I'd been eyeing up this place for a while and while there was a lot of things on the menu that I didn't think I'd like, you can't really go wrong with a steak so it was a safe bet. When we got there, that's where things took a stranger turn and as it turns out a very welcome one.
A bizarrely decorated, gaudy and eclectic restaurant, Bazaar Meat is upscale with a sense of humour. You're seated in very comfortable, expensive looking chairs, many of which have pictures of animals wearing sunglasses stuck to the back of them. The carpet is a meat map of various cuts, there are models of alligator heads mounted to the walls. The bathroom stalls all have mirrored walls (why.. why must you do this). Bizarre Meats would work just as well and I'm sure that was deliberate on their part.
We were offered a menu that was literally massive, oversized, about the same scale as a broadsheet newspaper. While we were dredging our way through that, the waiter offered us 3 tasting menus. I don't normally go for tasting menus, they're a big risk for somebody picky. I usually run into a lot of things I don't like, which sort of defeats the point and really, tasting menus are for adventurous diners and I am the polar opposite of that. This time though we decided to throw caution to the wind. After all, it's mostly meat, you can't go that far wrong. It was our last night and we felt like trying something new. We chose the cheaper option "The Classics" and that was where the fun began.
Initially I thought we'd made a mistake. First up were olives done two ways. Neither of us like olives, but we tried them anyway. Immediate regret, the taste was pungent. I ordered a liquid nitrogen-frozen cocktail to get rid of the taste, water wasn't cutting it. Not a good start, but let's be honest, not their fault. I'm not exactly sure what a well prepared olive would look or taste like, so I can't assess it. All I know is I hated it, but things quickly took a turn for the better.
Next up was essentially a giant pork-rind that they broke up table-side. There are several table-side dishes (as well as the aforementioned cocktail) which are entertaining to watch. In this case a large bag containing a sheet of pork-rind bigger than my head was smashed up at table-side and served with a spiced yoghurt dipping sauce. I don't like Pork Rinds, I loved this. That'll be a theme you notice going through the rest of this review, this place executed it's dishes so well that it convinced me to eat things I'd otherwise never eat as well as things that I otherwise do not like. Great flavour, excellent balance with the yoghurt sauce and a fun little light starter that most people should enjoy. Things would only get better from there.
Roe, fish eggs. Avoided them all my life, never liked the idea of it. I'm quite a texture-based eater, I'll be easily put off by strange unfamiliar textures and Roe is certainly one of those things. The item was called Bagels & Lox Cone, a tiny little cone topped with salmon roe and filled with a dill cream cheese. It was absolutely astonishing that such a tiny thing could have so much going on. The roe explodes in your mouth with an amazing burst of salmon flavour and the cream cheese filling reminded you of a really good smoked salmon, cream cheese bagel brunch. It was almost a Willy Wonka-esque dish, an entire plate in something the size of your finger.
Speaking of an entire dish in compact form, the next item arrived in a shoe. A translucent, plastic shoe. They were Cruquetas de Pollo, basically for all intents and purposes a chicken soup or even pot-pie encased in a bread-crumb container. They were absolutely delicious and incredibly filling. If you're from Britain, think of the upscale version of a Greggs Chicken Pasty, only without the 3rd-degree burns. Not complicated, but no need to be either, each bite was full of flavour.
Our server Lou was extremely passionate about the menu. He spent a good amount of time explaining why the menu was organized in the order that it was, what feelings the dishes were designed to evoke both in terms of taste and presentation. He told us at this point that we would be receiving something that was off-menu and that he hoped it would "find a good audience". That item was a Cotton Candy Foie Gras. As a rule I hate sweet/savory combinations, so I wasn't exactly enthused by the idea. We were instructed to eat the entire thing in one bite and then just "let it happen". The Cotton Candy/Candy Floss melts in your mouth, unveiling a core of chilled foie gras that is so rich and sweet it could be mistaken for a piece of fudge. A completely unexpected but incredible combination of flavours. It was a mid-meal dessert and it blew my mind. I think more than any other dish we tried that represents what Bazaar Meat seems to be trying to achieve, an upscale but fun, zany, eclectic meal experience. It takes itself seriously, but would prefer that you didn't.
The Classic came next, a beef tartare in a slider-like bun that reminded me of a mini sloppy-joe. It was absolutely bursting with flavour, with its odd but completely effective combination of mustard, egg yolk, HP sauce and anchovy (I hate anchovy, but not in this case). It was overwhelmingly flavourful and very satisfying despite its small size. I could have easily just eaten that and left happy.
The main course was Brandt Beef Tenderloin with a Chateaubriand sauce, accompanied by Robuchon whipped potatoes which are full all intents and purposes about 90% butter, Pommes Souffles (puffed potato, think a really nice kettle chip) and asparagus. The meat was cooked to perfection, which was hardly a surprise given how good everything else had been so far and the sauce was an ideal consistency and full of red wine flavour. The whipped potatoes were something I didn't expect to like, I much prefer thicker, lumpier mash that's done by hand rather than whipped, I don't usually like the liquidy consistency of American "mash". In this case though I'll make an exception for a heart-attack inducing bowl of buttery potatoes that complimented the meat perfectly. This was the dish I was planning on ordering on it's own, so I was glad to see it as part of the tasting menu and by this point we were on the verge of tapping out anyway simply due to the amount of rich food on offer.
The meal ended with a dessert platter of small cakes and tarts. Each of them was excellent in their own right, the only disappointment perhaps being the cream puff which had a toasted saffron finish that I wasn't particularly keen on. Aside from that there were some great flavours on the plate and they were all particularly fun bites, with ingredients such as popping candy and marshmallow used. The treats were blissfully small, because by this point we were concerned that we'd be rolling home rather than walking.
If I had to criticize any aspect of the meal there'd be two little issues I'd bring up. Firstly, we were not served the salad that was part of the tasting menu for some reason. That honestly wasn't a problem, neither of us actually wanted it to begin with but forgetting a dish that was on the menu was uncharacteristic and would no doubt be a disappointment to other diners if it happened to them. The other complaint, which seems rather petty considering how busy the place was, is that the meal did take quite a long time to complete. Tasting menus do tend to be a longer dining experience and pacing is very important, but there were a couple of instances where it took longer than was expected for a dish to reach the table. It started off well but slowed down immensely towards the end, particularly the gap between starters and main course (which I think might have been due to leaving off the salad, which was supposed to be between the two). It wasn't a big deal by any stretch of the imagination, we were enjoying ourselves so much that the wait didn't really matter, but it's worth bringing up regardless.
Bazaar Meat seems like the sort of place that can appeal to both conservative and adventurous diners. If you just want a steak, you can have a steak and you'll love it. Hidden under the disguise of a steakhouse however is a wonderfully inventive and unpretentious selection of amazing items that is well worth the risk to try out. The tasting menus clearly seem like the way to go with such a large selection on offer. A word of warning, if you want to try the suckling pig you will have to note that in your reservation, since they run out of it quickly. A whole pig requires a preorder, but if there is any spare it usually gets ordered and eaten earlier in the evening so make sure to put in your order in advance if you want to eat that.
Bazaar Meat has been our favourite dining experience in Las Vegas so far. We've tried 30 or so restaurants over the last few years of visits and while some have come close, none have been quite as much fun or provided such unexpected and amazing flavours as Bazaar Meat. The service in particular was excellent and we'd like to thank Lou for helping us through a fairly daunting menu and giving us some passionate context to everything we were trying. He didn't have to do that, we were two people in videogame t-shirts surrounded by diners in suits and cocktail dresses, it would have been easy to dismiss us as people who didn't know what they were doing (and honestly, we didn't). He didn't do that though, he patiently answered our questions and took the time to go above and beyond what you'd expect from a waiter even at an upscale restaurant. We very much appreciate his colourful style of service and the obvious excitement he has for the food.
Give Bazaar Meat a try if you're in town and if you'd like to go on a tasty adventure and have the budget for it, the tasting menus are an excellent option. We'll be coming back again to give the other 97% of the menu that we didn't get to touch a try. Hopefully the rest of it will be as good as what we had. I'm sure it will.
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