The bustle and zip of the Brasserie by Niche can be appealing, if you're in the mood for it. Sure, the place can be echoey and they proudly state they use frozen potatoes for the frites (because they beat everything else in taste tests), but that's the only thing I have to say that isn't a compliment. The food, no matter what we've ordered, has been prepared and plated with easy care, the service has been good to very good, and the flavors all we wanted. Add a fair-plus wine list and affordable costs, and you've got a place that models the feel, flair, and competent informality of a brasserie.
When I'm in St. Louis and the Central West End is convenient, it's become my reflex if no one else is asking for a particular spot to say, "Why don't we just go to the Brasserie?"
I can't think of a better compliment for a brasserie than that one word, "just."
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