Our tour operator hooked us up with an amazing driver who took the two of us in his very nice Chevy on a two-and-a-half hour drive to the major spots one sees in the park. We did not spend any time at the fishing village (saw it from a distance, but were not interested in eating at the time, especially not in what threatened to be a crowded tourist venue). It was nice not having to wait for the inevitable stragglers to load themselves back on a bus at every stop, but come and go as we pleased. Our driver was very accommodating and did not rush us, spoke fantastic English and Japanese (had lived in Japan for many years) and was a delightful companion. The sand, salt, and rock formations are all fascinating. The roads there are "blacktop" (from all the rubber tires) but are actually paved with salt! Don't forget your sunscreen and eye protection (blowing sand here and there--it gets windy.)
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