Sam Luna has returned with a new version of his much loved Mesa Luna - this time in Sawyer, Michigan, featuring a more casual menu. Sam has cooked with some big time guys in Chicago, and he brings classical training to his food, as seen in his spectacular garlic custard with a fricassee of wild mushrooms. The current wild salmon entree is stunning in its simplicity with nuanced favors - would be a star even in Seattle or Portland. I wish more high end chefs would offer half portions as Sam does because it is a great relief to be served something other than the monster pieces of meat or fish found in so many places these days. This is especially true of Sam's Korean skirt steak with kimchee vegetables where half is just exactly enough. Add an interesting and very fairly priced wine list chosen by his extremely knowledgeable wife, Denise, and the new incarnation of Mesa Luna is a huge winner for all of us Harbor Country refugees from other places who know and appreciate great food. Service is still a little unpredictable, but once it is polished up more I will upgrade to five stars.
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