If you're an out-of-town traveler, you will probably need a member of the local cognescenti to find this hidden gem, but it is will worth the treasure hunt. The chef-owner, who is from Calabria, obviously takes pride in his Italian heritage and his kitchen. Our first course, large enough to be shared by two, included not only fresh wonderful melt-in-the-mouth mozzarella and fresh (--in December) ripe tomatoes, but also a very generous display of that marvelous, thinly sliced (almost transparent) Italian ham--not Parma, but equally impressive to the palate. Everything from the first taste to the last--the tiramasu is made on the premises!!--was excellent. The Italian-accented servers were professional, attentive, solicitous. Ristorante Serena is cozy, but the white linen-topped tables leave sufficient room among them to have a quiet personal conversation without being elbow-to-elbow with neighbors. The front windows offer a enticing view inside from the street, but wait a minute--where is the front door? There is none! That's when your guest guides you around the corner to the side street and in the door there to the Panda Express. Huh? Surprise! A lateral hallway leads past the Panda to the entrance for Serena at its end, and you have found this treasure. Malden is a working-class suburb a short distance north of Boston--nothing tony like Cambridge or storied like the North End--but I would challenge you to find a meal so authentic, so savory in some of those places where you would pay two or three times the price, or even more. The tab is completely reasonable, fully fair, a bargain for what you have just enjoyed. Try this place, you should love it.