As long as Cesare Lafranconi is in the kitchen, it's worth braving the decibels and close tables to eat at Lia's. His pastas--wild mushroom ravioli and shrimp and sausage Paccheri--were exactly as they should have been. The pizzas at the next table looked delicious, and we didn't hear any complaints. Antipasti and fried calimari were fine; cured salmon was very good; some salad greens were a bit tired. The atmosphere is friendly and the servers willing. All in all, a chef with Cesare's talent deserves a visit.