We drove here ourselves, and the site is well signposted from the dead sea highway. One arrives in a car park - leave the car - purchase a ticket and wait for a tour bus. Some reviewers said the buses were sporadic but there was a timetable (A bus each 30 mins) and ours left on time.
If you don't know a vast amount when you start then you're possibly not going to be that much better off after you leave. The guide assigned to our bus was ok - talked a lot - pointed out Elijas hill during a breif stop (Again if you don't know who Elija was you wont find out - but he had a hill and it was pointed out !)
We stopped again to view an archeological site deemed to be the baptism site by virtue of it being on the old course of the river Jordan and it had a Christial chappel / baptism site. Then a 5 to 10 min walk to the river Jordan. The highlight for us was the fact that the border with the West Bank is the river and you are only a few meters from the Israeli operated "attraction". Plenty of time to mooch and get some photographs. A look around a Greek Orthodox church set back from the river for 5 mins - 10 mins in a gift shed and bus back to the start.
Was it interesting - yes. But if you aren't overly religious and are not really up on the facts there isnt a lot of info which is a shame. The guide did his best.... but there is only so much a bloke can do....
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