As a regular summer/winter visitor to Sun Valley for the last 20 years, I had been mourning the decline in the cuisine over the last several years. But my recent visit to Globus has made me hopeful that the good ol' days might be in revival.
My enthusiasm began with an exquisite opening act: perfectly seared foie gras over a blueberry donut surrounded with a bourbon maple glaze. A slightly odd sounding combination that worked wonderfully. Also appetizing was their pork dumplings using quality pork from Niman Ranch.
A highlight among the entrees is their Chipolte Miso Glazed Black Cod served with porcini mushrooms, sweet corn veloute and, the best part, dusted with fennel pollen. My Panang Curry was among the most flavorful curries I can recall, with genuinely authentic essences of Southeast Asia -- authentic in all dimensions except one: the spicy heat was nicely contained for my ageing and consequently less tolerant palate. The 'kick' was just enough to give the chicken curry life without making it difficult to approach.
Dessert is a course I almost always skip as a token homage to my health. But with the previous courses all so excellent, I felt a need to sample the full scope of the kitchen. I have become very fond of salted caramel ice cream/gelato and I order it anywhere I see it. So when it was offered at Globus, I couldn't resist. It turned out to be simply the best I have tasted. Aided by a swirls of salted caramel, the marriage with the ice cream made it sublime.
There were many other items on the menu that caught my attention and I looked forward to several more visits to sample them. Unfortunately the August forest fires and the resulting forced evacuation cut short our visit to Sun Valley and we were unable to further test the kitchen. But from our one experience it is strongly suggested this kitchen was not just well-trained, but more critically, executes with a passion for food.
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