Than life in the slow lane! It seems the charming Stelios, owner/chef at Dounias has found the answer to life's troubles - clean mountain air, pure, unadulterated Cretan food cooked slow over wood fires and served in charming rustic surroundings. After an afternoon there it's not hard to understand why Stelios and his wife decided to return to the simple life and his childhood home to bring up their children and offer a taste of real Crete to visitors who take the trouble to find them. Leave Chania and the coast behind, drive through the beautiful Therissos gorge into the mountains to Drakona. Go in daylight to enjoy the spectacular scenery, grab a hillside table and settle down ... slow food served slowly with love. Stelios grows, harvests, forages & prepares fresh seasonal food every day : all products, wine, oil, meat & vegetables come from the family's land. You're invited into the kitchen to see what's on offer; a multitude of dishes all cooked over wood either in the oven or over the flames - it's an unforgettable taste. The goat & lamb dishes are amazingly tasty as is the pork in orange with a subtle taste of fresh juice. Both the snails and liver dishes are succulent and their juice well worth mopping up with the home cooked bread. But it's his vegetable dishes which truly stand out (this is a true accolade from a dedicated carnivore) ... you might find Gigantos, the local large white beans with herbs & fresh tomatoes, greens of every sort, local stutfed & baked vegetables and quite the best potato fries I have EVER eaten anywhere : slow cooked on the stove in olive oil until soft in the middle, crunchy on the outside, slightly smoked and scattered with local salt & herbs : I would happily dine on just these! His wine is good and if you're well behaved he'll take you down and offer a tasting from the barrels in the cellar ..... make your choice and make sure you've brought a dedicated driver!