I was in Pushkar on Mahashivaratri and went to several Shiva temples here. Most had only a few worshippers, despite beautiful four faced lingams. However, there was one that had a long line of pilgrims. It is nondescript and hard to find, just a narrow door that goes down steep steps. There is a long narrow hallway carved into the earth that leads to a small, 10X10 tiled room with a large lingam wrapped in a copper naga. Nothing to look at, BUT the devotional intensity of the worship was as sincere as any I've seen in India. People waited patiently while chanting for over an hour in the hot, humid tunnel just to get to the lingam and make offerings and receive darshan. (be sure to take an offering) They were welcoming to me as a non-Indian, and there was something about being deep underground, under Pushkar in this tiny ancient room with its lingam that has really stuck in my imaginative and devotional landscape.
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