This is one of the main reasons, if not the main reason, to visit Myanmar.
The temples are spectacular at every time of the day and whether you view them from the tower, a boat on the water or as you pedal around on a bicycle! We did all three of these activities and saw a different aspect each time.
Being off season we encountered hardly tourists at all and despite the heat during the day, the sights never lost their appeal and awe-inspiring aura.
I can't even imagine Bagan when all 13,000 temples and stupas were still standing.
Even with "only" 2000 in existence this is one of the most amazing places I have ever been.
Up to now, Angkor Wat had that place in my heart but Bagan is mesmerizing.
I definitely recommend taking a bike trip. Most of the hotels have bikes to rent for a nominal fee or for no charge. Our hotel concierge staff told us that if we got tired if cycling just leave the bike down and walk on, nobody will take the bikes! The bike paths wend their way through the smaller temples where you will also encounter oxen and ploughs, farmhouses, goatherds and their flocks. The bigger temples will have small snack "shacks", t-shirt vendors and the usual tourist traps. Beware the vendors! They are relentless. This was the first time on our trip that we encountered the real tourist-savvy kids and adults with their smattering of English/French/Italian phrases who hounded us on our way into the temples and remembered us when we emerged again. It reminded us of Thailand 25 years ago! But we had not experienced this in either Yangon or Mandalay so it was a bit surprising initially. As long as you are prepared for this touring the temples is a fantastic experience.
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