My wife and I stayed 3 nights (15-18Nov2010) in this Rick Steves-recommended B&B located a mile and a half from Amboise. Words can’t begin to describe how attractive and captivating is this “16th-century hillside manor house” (from Rick Steves’ France 2010) with lovely gardens and a number of “cave dwellings” dug into the hillside. After you drive through the stone archway that forms part of the house’s foundation, park in a graveled courtyard with immense stone fountain and lovely landscaping, and look up to admire the architecture of the house itself, you will easily imagine courtiers strolling about and armor-clad men dismounting horses.
We join “Rick” in recommending a stay at this chateau where English-speaking owner Veronique Fructus is both charming and helpful. Every morning Madame Fructus greeted us at breakfast (included in the room rate) while overseeing our dining wishes and tending to the breakfast room’s fireplace (the latter very welcome in November). Breakfasts were “French style” with croissants, breads, cheeses, homemade jams, juices, coffee and tea (my wife maintains the cheeses were particularly tasty). Many of the breakfast ingredients were either locally grown or locally produced.
A stay at Chateau de Nazelles really requires renting a car (I would not recommend walking or biking along the narrow highways leading to Amboise), but renting a car is the easiest and surest means of visiting the many (many) chateaux in the Loire Valley. One reviewer mentioned some (understandable) confusion in finding the B&B; we recommend following (exactly) the directions provided on the B&B’s website, which led us without mishap to the chateau.
Out of sheer curiosity, we elected to stay in one of the two “troglodyte” rooms offered by the Chateau – rooms formed from cave dwellings cut into the limestone hillside. With two large windows opening onto a small garden patio, the room was charming; a nice bathroom, separate glassed-in shower, and another separate toilet stall meant we didn’t lack modern conveniences in the “cave.” And, while we didn’t actually make use of it, we did briefly see the chateau’s attractively furnished “living room” that was available to all lodgers for lounging, entertainment, and internet connectivity.
While visiting the Loire Valley in cold (and occasionally rainy) November meant minimal-to-no delays in tourist lines at the various chateaux, the November weather regrettably kept us from widely strolling the grounds at Chateau de Nazelles (one path leads to a nearby forest) and also kept us from using the swimming pool. Good reasons to return to this wonderful B&B in another season!