This is a sophisticated Japanese dining experience, a major leap from sushi, tempura and noodles -- even for actual Japanese. Presentation is delicate and deliberate, timing is of the essense, portions are small and the bill can mount up. If you have dined at similar restaurants in, say, expense-account Tokyo, you'll be ready for this; if not, be prepared for a sensory challenge -- one that may send you home shaking your head . . . or, possibly, looking forward to another visit. "Not for everybody" was never more appropriate.