A happy return to Cnapan with its quirky and homely restaurant. But the food is exceptional. Combinations of flavours so clever. Wonderful scallops on a cauliflower purée. More of a choice of vegetarian dishes than previous years. Vegetables delicious (beetroot with horseradish; shredded cabbage and caraway seeds) and plentiful. Desserts - a great choice of inventive dishes with subtle and clever flavour combinations. Squidgy apple and almond pudding with calvados caramel sauce - mmmmm. We will return.