My mom and I took a cab up here from the cruise ship dock. She doesn't walk well, and it is far enough that for people with mobility issues you will want a cab. We bought the combo ticket for the totem center and fish hatchery. There were several people walking around the totem center, but I didn't see any employees giving tours or anything. My mom sat and I pretty much walked around it on my own.
It is very small with just three rooms. They have signs giving you info, so I don't think you really need a tour. It can all be seen pretty quickly. These are the historical totem poles that mostly don't have paint on them anymore. To me it was interesting to see them, but just don't go in expecting really pretty, perfect totem poles.
As far as I could tell they did not have a gift shop, which is always too bad. Overall it was fun and interesting for us, but I don't know that it's a must-see.
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