…but I can't say I hate Olive Garden any longer. Say what you will about chains, but the menu, service and food quality is much better than I was expecting. I can't think offhand of a good local authentic Italian place nearby, so this wins by default. I also enjoy the fact that there's plenty more food than stuff covered in red sauce for a finicky stomach like mine.
I'm sure there's better, more authentic Italian somewhere nearby, but this is good enough for me to not seek anything else out.