I was very surprised to read all the negative reports as we had a lovely time. It is true it's a bit off the beaten path but the tourist bus will get you there for 1RM (you might have a bit of difficulty getting back to the centre, but we were lucky and caught the odd taxi). I, personally, didn't expect much as I read about it before in various tourist guides and most of them described it as a very touristy place. But we came here just as the sun was setting, so we just relaxed on one of the benches along the shore which was quite nice and peaceful. This was the night before Christmas Eve and soon the square and the restaurants were a hub of activity as more and more people came for their dinner. I was very curious what the portuguese-malaysian fusion is like and we chose stall no. 6 ti give it a try...And I couldn't be more full of praise: the lady, who looked like the proprietor and who was also supervising the cooking and taking the orders patiently explained every dish to us in which we were interested in and we went with her suggestions and had grilled fish with a nice tamarind sauce and butter and garlic praws. The prawns were fantastic and I would go back there for that dish alone! As the lady explained, the prawns were nothing like the Chinese version and they were fresh, sweet and covered in the meltingly gorgeous taste of slightly "burnt" butter and garlic and a sprinkling of fresh curry leaves. After we discovered we still had some space in our stomachs, we tried the "burnt crab", which was nice but perhaps a bit steep at 20RM; the fish was 15 and the prawns 12 ringgit so overall quite reasonable. It wasn't like anything else I've tasted before and I had tried a fair share of malaysian cuisine over the years. Unfortunately, the museum was closed already but I managed to buy a specialist book on the portuguese malaysian culture in a shop that was openened. What we didn't expect either was how busy the surrounding streets will be with people taking pictures of other peoples' Christmas-y decked out homes . That was a different experience for us coming from boring old London and we were glad we witnessed something different to the standard malaysian or singaporean tradition of decking out shopping centres and streets. Some children were even singing carols for anyobdy's pleasure (they were very good at it) and making everyone merry. I don't know how it is during a different season, but i would recommend Portuguese sq to anybody who is interested in the many faces of Malaysia, because this is one that is quite different to the rest.
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