Old glories don't die, they hide away. Nothing exemplifies this so much, in recent experience, than the food served my two fastidious friends, as well as hair-trigger self, by the Earthen Oven located in My Fortune hotel, on Radhakrishnan Road in Chennai.
After a year and more, I wandered back to that lovely hotel of my 1970's heydays - the ITC Chola, resplendent with marble, Dickensian in character, with it's Durrants Bar furnished of old woods and silken cushions, with staff who are alert to the twitch of an eye.
What had a change of name done to this treasure , symbol of the sybarite, as well as corporate chieftain, two-score years ago?
Rejoice, all remains well,and facilities have been modernised without a skipped beat on the heritage! At Durrant's, you are still treated like some returning hero. The corridor is still a whisspering gallery of arts and crafts, and on the first floor is the new,divine Earthen Oven.
The food : of Avadh, right across the crescent to Afghanistan. And perfection, in preparation and cooking, that makes you want to eat without a worry about moderation or rectitude expected of senior citizens. Service: fresh and hot, all through a 1 1/2 hour meal . Wines from around the world a charming touch, though not exactly my vodka tonic. The gravies, the bread and the meat are good for several rounds of enchantment for dinners in the future. Fare thee well, humble oven!
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