Chandni Chowk, Delhi's old market area, is everything at once--a wild jumble of people, tuk tuks, cars, scooters, carts, cows, shops, signs, flowers and more and more. It is loud, colorful, beautiful, tacky, faded, friendly, pushy, alive, alive, alive. Rent a rickshaw with a tour guide driver who knows his way through all the side lanes, spice market, etc., but be firm if he takes you to his 'favorite' places to shop. (Some of them might be great, some not--just be aware.) Come early best from 10 a.m.-2 p.m.), bring your camera, watch your wallet and buy some of the freshest spices you will ever taste. When you get home, they will remind you that you didn't just imagine this amazing place.
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