Background: As an optional excursion while staying in Yangshuo, our tour group opted to visit this unique geological feature. Moon Hill is a small mountain with a karst pinnacle, at the centre of which is a moon-shaped hole (what remained of an ancient limestone cave). It is located a few miles south of town and across from Jingbao River along Hwy 321.
PROS: While it is definitely not walking distance from town, it may be reached by local bus or (more fun) by cycling through the countryside. I was able to conserve some energy by renting an electric-powered bicycle. It will take about 20 mins or so to negotiate the 800+ paved steps to the base of the moon arch, and about 45 mins to the summit. (When we were there, someone was rock-climbing the inside of the arch.) It's considerably steeper and rougher to the summit itself, but it is entirely doable. As a reward, you will be afforded broad, panoramic views of the countryside. On your way back, pass by the Moon Hill Café for a cold beer (¥20), specialty coffee (¥18-25), a can of Coke (¥5), orange-mango juice (¥8) or what I ordered: Snicker's Chocolate Shake (¥22).
CONS: There is an entrance fee. It is a simple hike with a well-marked trail, but the climb itself would be moderately difficult to novice hikers. Granted, some stretches of the trail can be difficult and challenging, but nothing that an average person with a moderate level of physical fitness cannot accomplish. Along the way, hordes of souvenir hawkers and drink vendors follow you around.
TIP: Before you go, watch whether it's foggy or rainy in Yangshuo. If it is, chances are your climb will be slippery and your views from the top would be crappy. Go in good weather and early in the morning, before the hot sun and the rest of the world descend on the place. A lot of locals will "volunteer" as a guide (for a fee, of course), but you won't really need them. There are no side trails; you won't get lost. You may want to bring bottled water, but then there's Moon Hill Café at the entrance to the trail. At high noon, the bright sun may overwhelm (washout) the scenery to render them less photogenic. From my experience, landscape photos are better taken around sunrise or sunset. Surely, the contrasting shadows at dusk allowed the knobby karst hills to stand out better.
Verdict: I suspect that, when people say that the topside scenery was so-so and really underwhelming, it is because they saw it at a less-than-flattering light (much like a gorgeous fashion model when she first wakes up). To be fair, we are not talking here about Machu Picchu at sunrise after a 4-day Inca Trail hike. It may not be a photographer's mecca, but it is worth climbing for the sense of accomplishment -- if nothing else. Grade B+.
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